Go Take A Ride Or Pedal The Rails
CLAY, W.Va. – As the third most forested state West Virginia is blessed to have so many ways to explore the splendor of its wilds from whitewater rafting, ziplining and trams, to hot air ballooning, paddleboarding and skiing.
Add to that Rail Biking – cycling on specially-made bicycles that ride upon abandoned, short rail lines. Also called Rails With Trails. Just an hour north of Charleston, the Clay County Business Development Authority have developed Buffalo Creek Rail Rides, one of only a handful of rail bike excursions in the United States.
As of Saturday, May 23, one of West Virginia’s unique new outdoors attractions – Buffalo Creek Rail Rides (http://buffalocreektrail.com/about-the-buffalo-creek-trail.html and 304-618-7992) and its sister operation, Buffalo Creek Excursions, a guided train trip, are now both open for the season.
Both excursions take place on six miles of the former Buffalo Creek and Gauley Railroad, which was home to America’s last steam-powered train that even ran through the creek (more on that later) and that was in operation hauling coal out a local mine until 1999.
The 12-mile round trip takes about 2 1/2 hours and costs $25 or $15 for children 12 and under. You can pedal the whole 12 miles or you can be towed up and then ride the six miles back. The rail bikes are made for anyone ages 10 and older and up to a 250-pound weight limit.
Build It And They Will Come Pedal
Although the devastating WV floods in 2016, delayed its start, Buffalo Creek Recreational Trail has been the little tourist economic engine that could. In the flood, they lost two bridges. A FEMA project helped re-do the rail, the culverts and bridges that were wiped out during the flood.
First opened in 2018, Buffalo Creek Rail Rides drew 1,300 tourists last year to ride and/or pedal on the rails. Those folks came from everywhere. “We have had people from 30 different states this year, said Mitch DeBoard, President of the Clay County Business Development Authority during a 2019 fall foliage trip. “We have had tourists from as far away as China, one from Australia, one from England and folks from Italy.”
In the first two seasons, DeBoard said tourists have been split as to whether they opt for the rail bikes or the tourist train. “I would say it is about 50/50,” DeBoard said. “We get more of the older riders who want to do the excursion train and the younger riders all want to do the bikes.”
Mining Local History And Beauty
Why people have already come from around the world is obvious when you get there. While many folks buzz right by Clay County on I-79 on their way deeper into the mountains, there too is an intoxicating blend of scenic beauty and history that makes the Greenbrier River Trail, a perennial destination for cyclists, anglers and hikers.
When we went out last fall in the height of fall colors in late October, just the drive was worth the price of admission. On the way over we took I-79 north over to Route 36 winding through thickets of rhododendron, and hills wrapped in the colorful leaf quilt that is fall. Interestingly, there were no signs for the rail line on the main road coming in, so like many things in West Virginia, you felt like you were getting in on a secret. On the way back we took an even more scenic way WV 16 over to Route 60 (with a stop at the Glen Ferris Inn) and back to Charleston.
Whether you use pedal power or sit back and enjoy the scenic trip in one of the cars being pulled by the small tourist train, you’re in for a fascinating exploration of rich regional history and gorgeous scenery to boot as the railroad snakes along the trout-stocked swift waters of Buffalo Creek, past the Devil’s Sawmill waterfall, and deep into local coal mining history surprisingly from the not-so-distant past. As late as the mid 1980s the mine here was still ballin’ to the tune of 150,000 tons a month.
Once you wind past the small headquarters and ball fields, the rail leaves all roads and most signs of civilization behind. “For the next two miles enjoy the ride and after that we will give you some more storytelling and history,” said conductor Dustin Fitzwater last fall to a group of nearly 20 veterans under the care of Owen Charles Walker, a recreational therapist and half a dozen staff. “Just sit back and enjoy the ride but keep your eyes open. We may see a bear or two,” Fitzwater said.
“For the past three years, the WV DNR has been stocking that section of Buffalo Creek with fish, and it is not uncommon for passengers to see a wild variety of wildlife – everything from beavers and river otters in the nearby Buffalo Creek to whitetailed deer, and black bears who have sauntered across the tracks and have been seen making dens out of some of the porous rock cliffs that line the railway,” DeBoard said. “We had some people on the rail bikes that almost hit a bear.”
Rolling Back Through Mining and Railroad History
Relics of the region’s rich coal mining history are everywhere. On one stretch of track lies the rusting carcass of a coal car that was one of about 10 coal cars that flipped over in a train derailment in 1980. All but a couple of the cars were able to be pulled out. “It happens,” DeBoard said telling the travelers about the wreck. “We just don’t want it to happen today.”
The Recreational Trail is part of a 93,000-acre once owned by J.G. Bradley whose railroad was put in to extract the area’s timber, oil and coal. And it was the only way in and out of these towns. “There were no roads in and out of these towns, the only way in and out was by rail. There’s a town called Evoke that was a sawmill and two or three houses. Adair, the next town had a large dairy farm as the catalyst for its existence and the last town, Widen, had it all. They had they own YMCA, bank, their own schools and everything. You were paid in script and shopped in the company stores,” DeBoard said. “ …This is the last place where they loaded the coal out – November 1999 was the last coal out of the hollow.”
One of the most fascinating parts of that hauling was that it was done by a steam engine – reportedly the last in use for business purposes and not a tourist railroad – in the U.S. The reason for steam was out of necessity.
“The train literally went through the creek and when the diesel engine that provided electricity to move the wheels got in the water you can guess what happened – it shorted out so they had to switch back to steam and it was the last commercially operated steam train in the nation.”
West Virginia’s Newest State Park
Although there has been somewhat of a temporary setback with Covid-19 restrictions, the Buffalo Creek Recreational Trail has a bright future thanks to new state tourist investment called Elk River Trail System State Park that will feature 72 total miles of trails.
The Buffalo Creek Trail will spur from the Elk River Trail, span across 18 miles and run adjacent to Buffalo Creek, starting near the city of Clay and ending at Widen in Clay County. Upon completion, the Buffalo Creek subset will feature a walking and biking trail as well as the Rails With Trails excursions.
The Elk River Trail will span across 54 miles and run adjacent to the Elk River, starting in Clendenin and ending just south of Duck on the Clay-Braxton county border. The trail will be ideal for hiking and biking and will also provide easy access to local boating, fishing and kayaking opportunities along the Elk River.
The addition of the Elk River Trail System will give West Virginia 447 miles of rail trails. West Virginia already boasts one of the largest rail trail systems of any state in the nation, with more than 375 miles of these trails already in service. The new trail will become the second-longest trail in the state (equal to the 72-mile North Bend Rail Trail) and right behind the 78-mile-long Greenbrier River Trail.
Both sections will increase tourism opportunities in areas historically limited in traveler visitation and will also serve as an economic boost to these same areas, many of which were devastated by the historic June 2016 floods. The trails are set to fully open later this year although some sections are open now.
“I think it will be a big game changer for the whole central part of the state,” DeBoard said of the attraction that is so hidden yet so accessible. “Not just for us but the whole central part of the state… People don’t know this is here and just look at the colors. It’s just as pretty here as it is anywhere else, and it’s so peaceful. Do you see any houses? Do you see any roads?”
Staying Along The Creek
If you’re looking to make a weekend of it in Clay County, you don’t have to look far for lodging. At the Buffalo Creek Recreational Trail head sits the J.G. Bradley Lodge and campground. The lodge named after Joseph Gardner Bradley the VP of the BC&G Railroad, has five bedrooms, a kitchenette, a large creekside deck, a stone fireplace.
Opened in 2005, the Lodge is popular for weddings, and reunions of all sorts. The Lodge and the adjacent campground with eight full hookups for RVs as well as primitive camping, is run by Clay County native Judy Workman and her husband Steve. After moving to Akron for work, the couple upon retirement sold their house, bought an RV saw the country and then rolled back home.
“We love it. That is why we came back. We volunteer here. I take care of the lodge and he takes care of the campground and he built the bathhouse. He is a retired carpenter. That made it easier for us. We love what we do. Seeing the veterans come in and enjoy the place makes us love it even more,” Judy Workman said of hosting the veterans for a fall railroad ride.
If You Go:
WHAT: Buffalo Creek Recreational Trail
WHAT IS THAT? Buffalo Creek Recreational Trail has Buffalo Creek Rail Rides, a rails on trails pedal bike trip as well as a motor-powered Buffalo Creek Excursion train. Both operate on a 12-mile round trip on the former Buffalo Creek and Gauley Railroad Line.
WHERE: 867 Buffalo Creek Road, Clay, West Virginia 25043
CONTACT: http://buffalocreektrail.com or call 304-618-7992
HOW MUCH? $25 and $15 for children 12 and under
WHERE TO STAY: The J.G. Bradley Lodge and Campground. There’s five rooms at the Lodge, eight RV hookups (electric, water and sewage) and multiple primitive camping spots, shower and bath houses. Call 304-545-5829.
Tales of the Elk River Inn, 594 Main St., Clay. Call 304-587-7530.
NEW COVID-19 TRIP RULES: Open weekends only until further notice. Only one family per train car , only eight per family in one car. Must wear mask in the gift shop, must be six feet apart from other people (other than your family) at all stops along the ride.
LOCAL ATTRACTIONS: Elk River Get-A-Way (kayaking outfitters) at 16544 N. Elk River Road, Clendenin, WV 25045. Go online at www.elkgetaway.com
LOCAL FLAVOR: Many of the gifts in the gift shop are made by local Clay County High School students. Pick up some Ordinary Evelyn’s tasty food products such as Cranberry Walnut Jam, hot pepper butter and more.
